Downtown Pittsburgh seen from the Monongahela side, with the mighty river rolling in the foreground.
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Firstside from the Mon
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Fort Duquesne
This marker sits right in the middle of what was once Fort Duquesne, the French attempt to hold a vast inland empire that the British coveted. The British attempts to dislodge the French began a world war unprecedented in its scale; we call it the French and Indian War, but in other parts of the world it’s known as the Seven Years’ War. The marker shows the plan of the fort and the French names of the rivers; note that the French, logically enough, considered the Allegheny a part of the Ohio, and the Monongahela a tributary. Had the outcome of the war been different, not only would Pittsburghers—or rather Duquesnois—speak French, but we would have only two rivers.
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Buhl Building
There’s nothing quite like the Buhl Building, on Fifth Avenue at Market Street. Here we see the east side of it. This side faces an alley, but there’s no stinting on the decoration, which looks like it was copied from a Wedgwood plate.
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Christmas in the Steel City
You can do all sorts of things with metal if you put your mind to it, but it helps if you adapt your design to the material. You can make an artificial Christmas tree with realistic steel branches and needles, and it won’t look nearly as artistic as this simple but effective stack of hamster balls, which is currently sitting in one corner of the refurbished Diamond.
The Diamond is a short walk from the Wood Street subway station.
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Gingerbread Landscape in the Wintergarden
The Wintergarden at PPG Place is full of gingerbread houses—and gingerbread skyscrapers, gingerbread inclines, gingerbread Russian cathedrals, and anything else that can be rendered in gingerbread.
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The New Diamond
The Diamond (or “Market Square” as it’s called on maps) has been torn up and rebuilt. Forbes Avenue no longer goes through it; instead, all traffic must skirt the edge of the square. The plan has been radically simplified, making the space more versatile. Whether it was worth all the money spent on the rebuilding is a question best left to political writers rather than your humble servant.
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Westinghouse Building
The old Westinghouse Building, designed by Harrison and Abramovitz, specialists in black steel hulks. Here we see it from the Monongahela side.
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Barge Train on the Mon
Click on the picture to enlarge it. The Monongahela is still very much a working river, and barge trains like this are a common sight. This one is empty and going upstream. Somewhere up there these barges will be filled with coal and come back downstream with their loads.
The boat that pushes the barges from behind is called, defying common sense, a towboat (corrected from “tug,” thanks to the helpful comment of a kind reader). Working on the barge trains is a dangerous business, but river culture has its own romance, with strong traditions passed on through the generations that most of us who spend our days on dry land know nothing about.
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Letterbox in the Frick Building
A brass letterbox in the lobby of the Frick Building downtown. Letters come down the shaft from the upper floors and into this miniature postal temple, where they are treated royally for a few hours until they have to be transferred to a humble mailbag.
UPDATE: Note the clarification from the kind commenter below, who points out that the shaft is no longer in use. What would H. C. Frick say if you told him he had to walk all the way down to the lobby to deposit his outgoing mail? (It’s a trick question: H. C. Frick would of course reply, “No, you have to walk all the way down to the lobby to deposit my outgoing mail.”)
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Federal Deco
The Federal Reserve Bank on Grant Street is actually one of our purest Art Deco buildings. It’s a Moderne interpretation of the style old Pa Pitt likes to call American Fascist.